Saturday, May 24, 2014

Seven Months of Learning

       Seven months. I have now lived in Croatia seven months. And what a seven months they have been. Recently, I have been reflecting a lot on my time here. I have thought about all I have learned and my purpose here in this country. I feel so blessed to have the experience and even through the hard times, I don't regret coming here at all. I would like to use this post to share some of things that I have learned about myself.

1) I am made for community and building relationships with people. One of the hardest things about being here has been a lack of community. I am no longer surrounded by like-minded Mennonites who know me and love me completely. I have had to go way out of my comfort zone and be able to trust people who I don't have a common history/culture with. And in doing so, I have built some significant relationships. By trusting myself with people different than myself, I have become more open to different ideas and I am better able to empathize with people and see different view points without judging. I always thought I was open-minded before, but really I was only open to ideas similar to mine. And now, I feel like I can talk and become friends with people with whom I disagree with. I know how to find similarities and see the goodness in all people. My friend group here is so diverse from Evangelical Pentecostals to atheists, from Croatian teenagers to retired Texans. And I can honestly say I love them all! But even as I have made some significant relationships and I love the diversity of friends, I have not built a community here. I have had to rely on my community back in the United States, which has been so hard to do. I realize I need a physical community and I am unsure of how to find this here in Croatia.

2) I have learned a lot about libraries. I used to believe I knew libraries pretty well; I spent many an hour studying in EMU’s library and could always find the books I needed. But now, I understand the dewey decimal system. I understand the computer systems and how to put a new book into a system and then be able to easily find that book later when you are looking for it. I know how to run circulation, as well as shelf. And I am good at it. I have somehow become the expert in the library here and my coworkers will often come ask me how to best catalogue a book. This past two weeks, there was a group from Cedarville University in Ohio. It was my job to train them on how to process books. It was weird to have them come ask me advice when I know that they actually want to become librarians, while it is just an accident that I found this position and learned these skills.

(Also, I just want to give a quick shout-out to my Cedarville friends. You guys are really great and I feel so blessed by your friendship!)

3) I have learned how to be on my own. This has been a big one for me and one that I haven't really liked. Figuring out a new place by yourself can be really hard. Coming here, I had to do much on my own. Yes, people helped me out, but I had to take the initiative to ask for help. I had to find a way to meet people (such as couch surfing), then be willing to initiate facebook posts to actually hang out. Purchasing my bicycle was a big day for me as I had to figure out how to get to the market, then talk in both Croatian and English to find a bike I was satisfied with. It felt so great to do all of that by myself and feel like I can survive on my own. I have figured out that running and biking are two good things to do by myself. I found an art store to buy supplies and spend time painting. I have my own room and it is up to me to clean up if I don't want to live in a mess. I am in charge of my breakfasts and dinners and if I don't go to the grocery store, I won't eat. Although these skills of independence have been really good, they have also made me realize my deep need for community.

Take my bike for example. I was so proud of myself of finding a good deal and independently purchasing a bicycle. However, since the purchase of the bicycle, my front light has fallen off my bike, my bell has fallen off my bike, some of my gears stopped working, my seat will not stay in place, and it will make some clanking noises. It would have been helpful to have someone who knows about bikes come with me. And in the times when I feel really low, it would be nice to have someone to hold me when I cry. I am able to tell some of my woes to my tutor and other friends, but even then, I don't feel like I can truly let go like I can with my community back home. So I find myself holding it in or calling home.

4) Speaking positively about my bike, I have learned that bikes for commuting are amazing! I feel so much more freedom with my bike! I can now get anywhere in town in less than twenty minutes! I love being able to go to my tutor's house for lessons, as well grocery shop at bigger stores. Having a basket is a must and it is so great to see the bike lanes around town (Osijek has the most bike lanes in the country) full of people going about their lives. It has also been a way for me to escape town. The other Sunday, I rode over fifty kilometers! First, I went by myself along the Drava in the morning, then I ventured to a nearby national park with some friends! It was so great to get out and be in nature again. Whenever I return to the United States, I want to start biking more and using my bike as a means of transportation instead of just exercise. I have always dreamed about living in a city and now my dreams include a nice bike I take to work everyday. My dream of someday biking across the United States has also been awakened.

5) Traveling! I now consider myself an expert at planning and going on trips. I can find good finds for hostels as well as apartments to rent. I know how to pack my backpack most effectively and how to make the most out of my time. My parents are now saying their trip here was one of the best they have ever been on! And I have such great memories of the places I have been and all the people I have met. It has been such a job being able to see new places and meet new people. I have discovered that every place has something to offer, even little towns such as Osijek. I want to take this with me, wherever I go. Even little towns in Ohio have things to offer if you are looking. If anyone needs help planning a trip, let me know! I am more than happy to help!

6) I now know a lot more about the Croatian language and culture. I still struggle learning Croatian. It is such a hard language and with so many people able and wanting to speak in English, I have found it hard to be motivated to learn. But I am learning. I loved having my parents here and being able to order in Croatian and talk to our hosts in Croatian. I have made progress and that feels good. I also know a lot of Croatians and am learning so much about how the culture is really different than the United States. A lot of these differences are hard to name out loud. But as I have recently spent time around other Americans, I can really tell the difference and in many ways I feel like an honorary Croatian because I understand a lot better now of how they think and the culture they come from. And even though it is still easier for me to work with Americans and be myself around Americans (because it is my culture and being in your own culture is almost always easier) I find myself comfortable around Croatians. More so than other countries I visit, where I haven't lived and I don't know the people. Some aspects of Croatian life can frustrate me, but on the whole, I have come to respect and even love the culture here. And that includes the language.


This post is becoming very long, so I will stop here for now. As you can probably tell, life here has not been easy for me lately. But when is life ever easy and always going your way? People from home will ask me how it is to live in Croatia and I always answer that it has its ups and downs just like life in America. You just have to cope and do what's best for you. That's life and I am learning how to navigate it to the best of my ability. 

Monday, May 5, 2014

The last few weeks


I am so sorry for not writing in a very long time. I started a post a while ago and never finished and then I was traveling. It was all very good and in case you are wondering, I am doing really well. I cannot believe that I only have six more weeks left in Osijek! A year ago I graduated college, six months ago I moved to Croatia, and soon I will begin the next phase of my journey of finally beginning my official BVS project. But until then, I still have many more adventures here in and around Osijek.

But let me catch you up. A few weeks ago I was so excited to have my dear friend from college, Lisle Bertsche, come visit me! Lisle made the flight over to Europe for ten days to see her sister, who is studying in Vienna, and me. Since we did not have too much time, we met in Zagreb, halfway between Vienna and Osijek, and spent three and half perfect days together. Truly perfect. For me, it was so nice to have one of my closest friends come just to spend time and see a bit of the place in which I will call home. We got to explore Zagreb, as well as make a day trip to Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. We talked, we walked, we ate good food, we drank a lot of coffee, and just immensely enjoyed each other’s company. I loved every bit of it.
Not only was it great to spend time together, we also met some pretty cool people. We stayed at Hostel Mali Mrak Zagreb, which was a fifteen minute tram ride from the center of town. The hostel was awesome! The owner, Igor, was so friendly and unlike other hostels where I have stayed, we got to know him as he is often out in the garden hanging out with guests in the mornings and evenings. We also made friends with other travelers: fellow Americans currently studying abroad in Italy, to a great European man riding his bike from his home in Cologne, Germany all the way to Greece! I loved the wide range of conversations from college RAs to the Kurdish situation in Turkey. We also met some great Croatian girls whom I hope I will become good friends with once I move to Zagreb (well near Zagreb, technically it is Sesvete) in June.
Only a week and a half after Lisle left, I went again to Zagreb, but this time to meet up with my parents! I traveled by train on Easter and spent the night in a hostel (once again meeting some cool people and having some fascinating conversations) before meeting them at the airport the next morning. After lunch and settling into our apartment, we ventured up to the main square and went around in the rain. The next day we went to a castle about an hour away and then the cute Croatian city of Varaždin. We had dinner at a nice, traditional restaurant near Zagreb’s main square. The next day we went to the town of Rovinj in Istria, Croatian’s northern coast. Rovinj was absolutely adorable with tiny cobblestone streets and Italian written everywhere along with the Croatian (it used to be a part of the Venetian empire). The next day we also made a trip to Pula, to visit on old Roman amphitheater.
After Rovinj, we drove eight hours down the coast to get to Croatia’s most touristic town, “the pearl of the Adriatic,” Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik is an amazing old city with complete city walls. It sees 800 cruise ships a year and for any Game of Thrones fans, it is the location of King’s Landing in seasons 2 and 3. It rained most of the day when we climbed the city walls and we got soaked to the bone. But it was well worth it! Truly a must-see place in the world! We then drove back up, stopping for a few hours in Split, then to Croatia’s biggest and best National Park: Plitvice. Plitvitce has hundreds of waterfalls and is truly amazing. I have never seen anything like it in my life! (I had been there with Cara in December, but half the park was closed then, so it was good to see it again). Finally we made it back Osijek. It was so fun showing my parents my town and introducing them to some of my friends. 

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

April Fools!


            Thanks to everyone who read and commented on my blog. It is nice to know that people would support me and care if I did decide to make a huge life decision. However, yesterday was the April 1st, which I found out is also celebrated in Croatia by playing jokes on people. Many here were thinking of practical jokes and it was my tutor who suggested I write a fake blog post. So Happy April Fools! I am in fact, not moving to Ukraine, but staying here in Croatia.
            But I am just fine with that. Even if there was such a job in Ukraine (I did make it sound pretty awesome), I wouldn't take it at this time. It is true that I am not completely satisfied with my work here, but over the past week I have realized that it is okay for this period in my life. I might not have had the best reasons for coming to Croatia, but I feel certain that this is where I should be right now. And I find myself happy here in Osijek. I don't think I could have written that April Fools blog if I wasn't satisfied with where I was.
            Because Osijek has become my home. I have a place where I belong. Here at the seminary, I might not enjoy my work, but I love the relationships I have formed here. Joška, a retired accountant who volunteers everyday in the library has been helping me with my Croatian when I come in the mornings. He was also there at the finish line of the half marathon to cheer me on and give me a hug.
            Speaking of the half-marathon, Sunday was a great example of how integrated I have become in this place. Three other guys from the seminary ran and it was fun to feel a part of the group. Before and afterwards we all hung out with some who came to support us. We went out to eat afterwards and it felt really nice. But it was not just seminary people I talked to. I also ran part of the way with some people from the running league I have been a part with. They don’t know me very well, but it was good to have other people come to talk to me after the race and ask how it went (all in Croatian!).
The actual race was not so great. It was hotter than training had been and I think I pushed myself too fast too soon and had to walk some at the end. However, I still made the time I predicted for myself: 2 hours, 26 minutes, and 46 seconds. I felt terrible during and these past couple of days have been rough. I am so sore and my toes are very bruised. But I did it. I made my goal and I finished! For my next one (most likely October 12 in Zagreb), I made a promise to train better so I won’t feel as bad.
So I am sorry to all those who might not have appreciated my joke. But know, that I am where I am supposed to be and where I want to be. It has been an interesting journey here in Croatia, and it is not nearly over.  :)

A Change in Plans

          As you probably know from my last blog post, I have been doing a lot of thinking lately. I have realized that Croatia might not be the best fit for me anymore. And while doing research about possible jobs in the human rights field, I came across a position for human rights workers in Ukraine. As you know, Ukraine is going through much unrest and many feel it would be helpful to send in an international delegation to work on the ground, recording human rights abuses and being actively involved in nonviolence trainings and workshops. I interviewed and have now accepted a position with one such NGO there. I leave early next week for Kiev.
         I know that this will come as a shock for many people, especially for my new friends here in Croatia. I have really appreciated my time here and the relationships that have formed. However,  I am also excited about this new work in Ukraine. I hope to post more details in the coming days as I learn more, but I wanted to share this news as I have heard it. Your thoughts and prayers are much appreciated. 

Thursday, March 27, 2014

Running away?


          Upon meeting me and finding out that I came to live here  in Croatia for almost three years without knowing anyone, a friend asked me,” What are you running away from.” Although he was joking, I have not forgotten those words. At the time I explained that I wanted adventure and to learn a new language and culture. But now, I am not so sure. You see, I was in such a hurry to leave the country. I knew my project would not start until May (now June), but I could not imagine staying in the United States any longer than I had to so I found an interim project. I didn’t really care what I was doing, but I had to leave. But why? Why was I so desperate to leave?
            I think part of the reason was that I was mad that I was graduating college. As silly as it seems, somehow I thought that if I could not stay in college, then I needed to be as far away as possible. I wanted to sound like I was doing exciting, important things in an exciting place. Anywhere in the U.S. did not seem exciting enough. And so I jumped on the chance to come here to Croatia without knowing really at all what I was getting into. I knew that if might be hard to be away for so long, but I figured it was all part of the great adventure.
            But now I am here. And reality has set in. My life isn’t glamorous, and it is not all that exciting. I currently work in a library doing work, which makes me feel like a robot. I will move in June and finally work with a peace organization, but even that does not bring excitement as the lack of expectations and even a job description scares me. As I go through what has become my normal routine, I wonder what good am I doing here? I am so far from the people I love most and the place where I feel like I could make an actual difference. I think about the real reasons I came here and I find myself wondering if I made the wrong decision. Was I really just running away? And if so, should I even stay?
            These are not easy questions and over the last few weeks I have struggled with the answers. I don’t regret coming, though. Even if I was running away, I would not have been satisfied staying in the U.S. I needed a change and I needed to try something new. And even though it has been hard at times, the experience here has been good. I have learned a lot about myself and gotten to see a new part of the world. The traveling and the relationships I have made have made it well worth my time.
            As I met with a Croatian friend over desert last night, I realized how much of a life I have created for myself here. I have a Croatian residence permit and a bank account. But even more than that, I have people I care about and people who care about me. I might not enjoy my current job, but I love the people I work with. I have formed some very close relationships that continue to grow. Just last week, I went on a day trip to Novi Sad (the second largest city in Serbia) with my good friend Debora. We had the best day walking around and talking.
I have the world’s greatest tutor! Seriously, just yesterday we ended up talking for an hour longer than the lesson time just about life. As much as I appreciate learning Croatian from her, I love even more the friendship that we have. I also have made a new friend who is from England and have enjoyed having someone my own age to talk to and hang out with who understands how hard it is to live in another country by yourself.
I have also become involved in more activities now. I run with a running club every Thursday by the river. They always time the run and even though I am one of the slowest, I have begun to meet other runners and find my own spot in the group. On Wednesday mornings, I have begun to teach an English class. I only have two students, but it has been a nice change to plan and teach lessons, something I had never done before. Oat least once a week I meet people for coffee and try to learn more about Croatia from Croatians.
And so I plan on staying. I no longer am starry-eyed and excited for whatever happens, but I want to give my new project a try and I want to continue to build a life for myself here in Croatia. There have been times when I have hated it here and just wanted to go home. But for the most part, I am content with my life here… I try to look for the positive and continue to learn new things every day. I know that things will not be easy and there will still be times when I will wonder if this is all worth it. And the time might come when it is not. It will not mean that I failed in this adventure or that I am not suited for life outside the United States, but that the placement and the time is not right. But for now, I am here for two more years and I want to make the most of it. 

Sunday, March 16, 2014

My Osijek

          I have now lived in Croatia for almost five months and thus I have learned a lot about this country. One way in which I have tried to learn more is to ask many questions to Croatians. One of these questions is "what is your favorite thing about Croatia?" One of the answers that always comes up is the beautiful coastline. And I have to agree, Croatia's coastline is beautiful. There are also great mountains and waterfalls and Zagreb, the capital city, is a really cool city with much to do. However, I don't live near the coast, I don't live near mountains or waterfalls, and I don't live in Zagreb. I live in Osijek, a city in the east, where the largest hill is the pedestrian bridge. It is the fourth largest city in Croatia with a population around 100,000 people, but it still feels very much like a small town. Not a whole lot happens here and I have to admit, that for a while I was frustrated that out of all the places in this beautiful country, I ended up in Osijek. 
          But the more I have explored, the more I have gotten to know people, the more history I have learned, the more I have come to like Osijek. And a few weeks ago as I showed my friend Becca around, I realized that I have made this city my home. I might not be living here much longer, but I will come back to visit. And even though Osijek is not exactly a tourist destination and it does not take too long to see all the sights, Osijek does have a lot to offer. And to prove it, I thought I would give you a virtual tour. 
The cathedral on the main square

"European Avenue" with its old mansions from Austro-Hungarian times.


Tvrđa with old city walls still intact. 



Unique churches.


Iconic statues.


And my favorite, the beautiful riverwalk on the Drava. 

This is my Osijek. 

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

23 Countries in 23 Years


        Last week, I was so excited to have my friend Becca come visit! Becca is a current EMU student who is studying this year in Germany. We had several classes together and share a lot of the same friends, even though we became very close at EMU. But still, when I knew that she would be in Europe, I convinced her that she should come on over to Croatia… and she did! She flew into Zagreb and then took a bus here to Osijek. We spent a day wandering around Osijek before taking a bus up to Pecs, Hungary.
         In Pecs, and then in Budapest, we stayed with couch surfers! For those who do not know, Couchsurfing is an online community in which people who love to travel and learn about new places and cultures join. Then you can do three different things: HOST – if you have a couch or an extra bed, you can let travelers come stay with you; SURF – instead of staying in a hotel or hostel, you can stay with local people on their couches; or just meet-up. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have been meeting with local couch surfers here in Osijek.
          For this trip, I had read through different profiles of couch surfers, then sent out requests for us to stay with local hosts. It was a great experience! We did not have a lot of time in Pecs, but our host served us breakfast and then gave us a city tour. I really enjoyed seeing the city from a local perspective and being able to ask all sorts of questions about Hungarian life. I also loved our host in Budapest! He was our age and lived in a great part of the city and I really enjoyed the conversations we had and the places we saw with him.
          After just a short time in Budapest, we took an eight hour train ride to Belgrade. Although it was long, we were in a really nice train car and I got to have a good conversation with a Serbian. (Having good conversations with strangers and getting to know new places and cultures through them is one of my favorite parts of traveling!) In Belgrade, we took a walking tour, explored an old fortress, ate local food, and enjoyed relaxing in cafes. I immediately fell in love the city and am already planning my next visit so I can explore more. On Wednesday afternoon, we caught a bus back to Osijek (only 3.5 hours) and then Becca caught an early bus back to Zagreb the next morning to fly back to Germany.
         We had a really good time and it was nice to show someone my part of the world. Plus, I was really excited to go to Serbia for the first time. You see, Serbia is the 23rd country I have been in and I am 23 years old! I think this is pretty cool! I thought it would be fun to share with you all the countries I have traveled to, along with the year in which I first visited.

1) Canada - 1999     2) Mexico – 2006     3) Bahamas – 2009     4) Nicaragua – 2009 
5) Belgium – 2011     6) France – 2011     7) Germany – 2011      8) The Netherlands – 2011
9) Italy - 2011     10) Switzerland – 2011     11) Liechtenstein – 2011     12) Austria – 2011
13) Luxembourg – 2011     14) Ireland – 2011     15) Northern Ireland – 2011          
16) Turkey – 2012      17) Iraq – 2012      18) Slovenia – 2013     19) Croatia – 2013            
20) Bosnia and Herzegovina – 2013      21) Slovakia – 2014     22) Hungary – 2014            
23) Serbia - 2014